The Sanaig is a no-age-statement whisky from Kilchoman, a young family run distillery on the island of Islay. Like many of the distilleries from the island, they specialise in a moderate to heavily peated malt that gives its whisky a characteristically prominent smoke note. Being a young distillery with only 15 years of whisky making heritage to its name, they don't have the reserves to put out a core range age statement whisky. Instead, Kilchoman focuses much of their efforts on cask influences, with a side of terroir too in the form of their 100% Islay offering.
So about cask influences...The main difference between the Sanaig and it's core range twin, the Machir Bay is the casks used for the whisky. The Sanaig is 70% Oloroso Sherry and 30% ex bourbon, while the Machir Bay is the opposite. This gives these two whiskies VERY different profiles. I'll hopefully be able to get a hold of a bottle of Machir Bay to do a proper review of that in the future, but for now, I'll present my review of the Sanaig!
Vitals:
ABV: 46%
Colour: Gold
Chill-filtered: No
Nose: Smoke hits at first, followed by sweet dried cherries and raisins that intermingle with an earthy, slightly saline peat. The sweetness amps up, giving the impression of dried fruits stewed in a brown sugar and brandy syrup. Behind the sweetness hides a touch of cocoa powder and used coffee grounds. /25
Palate: Initially somewhat spicy with a modest woodspice, some oak and vanilla, but these are brushed aside by a subtle ashy smoke that slowly builds to a raging campfire of peat by the time this dram reaches its finish. As the smoke builds, the spiciness is replaced by caramelised pears and plump brandy-filled candied raisins. There's even a slightly meaty note, but it's only ever teased at. The intermingling sherry and smoke here reminds me of cherry or grape flavoured hookah/shisha smoke. It becomes quite intense as it builds, but it it works really, really well.
Finish: Long, sweet and very smoky with a touch of brine, almost like someone charred cherries over an open flame on a beach.
Conclusion:
Young, heavily sherried and heavily peated. This shouldn't work, but holy macaroni, it does. And it does it extremely well to boot! The flavours meld together like they were made for each other. The smoke makes its presence felt, but never dominates and the sherry cask holds up extremely well to it. The sheer level of artisanry that went into blending this is second only to Nikka's offerings. Thats just how well made it is.
When I first tried this back at a Kilchoman tasting session in Seoul last year, held by Peter Wills, the Sanaig was actually one of my least favourites of the Kilchoman offerings. The sherry and the smoke combining in this manner was a bit of a system shock to me and subsequently a little off-putting, with that being said though, I didn't dislike it! But after getting a bottle and taking the time to carefully sip and appreciate the complexity it brings despite its young age, I think this might actually be one of my favourite Islays!
한국어 시음평:
향: 스모크, 말린 체리, 건포도, 소금 → 말린 과일, 흑설탕, 브랜디, 코코아 가루, 커피 가루
맛: 우드 스파이스, 오크, 바닐라 → 스모크, 구운 배, 설탕, 건포도, 훈제 고기
끝맛:소금, 구운 체리, 캠프 파이어. 피니시가 길고 달콤하며 스모키해요.
결론: 이 위스키는 셰리와 스모크의 훌륭한 조합이예요.
Review by Glasgowhisky
2020/11/01
I decided to revamp my review style and get rid of scoring because it's sort of pointless these days, and also... pandemic related prices increases in whisky over here in South Korea have rendered my "value" score a bit obsolete in present times. So I'll keep it simple and straight to the point for the foreseeable future.
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